Day: June 28, 2018
- Baton / Ogleshield / Cornichons, Caper berries, Tomato / Wunsch et Mann Gewurztraminer
- Malt/Rye Bread / Fedeira / Corney & Barrow Margaux
- Potato & Olive Focaccia / Rollwright / Olives / Dao Branco, Portugal
- Squash Sourdough / Baron Bigod / Toasted Pumpkin Seeds, Beetroot Houmous / JCB Cremant de Bourgogne
- Date Scone / Lanark Blue / Roast Apple, Toasted Nuts / Justinos 5YO Madiera
1. CHESTNUT PAIN DE CAMPAIGNE This bread is a sourdough, meaning that no yeast has been added to the dough. The name means ‘country bread’ and was traditionally baked in communal ovens in a round or miche.It is fermented and risen over three days giving it the charistically strong flavour and chewy texture. We have added cooked chestnuts to the dough which gives it a nutty flavour and soft, creamy texture.
2. GOATS CHEESE, RED ONION & THYME FOUGASSE This is a classic French bread that is either made plain (as we do daily) or flavoured as tonight’s is. It is made from our Overnight White dough and is shaped and cut with a scraper before being proved, baked and coated in olive oil. An amazing snack!
3. BAGUETTE The most iconic of all French breads! Despite this the name ‘baguette’ didn’t become common until the 1920’s. It is derived from the Italian bacchetta meaning ‘wand’. This is made over 2 days with a poolish (one third of the total flour and water and a small amount of yeast) fermenting for 14-15 hours in the fridge. In the morning this is then added to the remaining dough ingredients, proved, shaped and baked. This is the bread that takes us the longest to make, being the first thing mixed and the last out of the oven. If it weren’t for this dough we could get out of bed later!!
4. POILANESTYLE SOURDOUGH Lionel Poilâne is a French artisan baker famed for his 2kg miche loaves that are now exported all over the world. He was a champion of traditionally made, sourdough breads and the bakery, now run by his daughter, still trains bakers in the traditional methods of production. The Poilâne miche is made from 85% extraction flour, also called ‘grey flour’ which we buy from Yorkshire Organic Millers and spelt flour. This is our version.
5. UK APPLE TART TATIN We are celebrating the first of the UK apples by making another French Classic. The tart is thought to have originated in the Hotel Tatin south of Paris. We have made puff pastry but layering Lescure butter (a French butter with a high butterfat content) with pastry dough. Apples are sliced and layered into a mold with butter and sugar then the pastry is laid on top. This is all baked and then inverted. Perfect with the apple based Calvados and Cidre.
From the Jura mountain region comes one of France’s favourite cheeses – this one is made by Marcel Petite. Smooth, mellow, nutty and with a long finish.
Burgundy’s most pungent cheese and its most famous. It is powerful, luscious and a real cheese connoisseurs’ choice. Full flavoured, with a soft, oozy texture.
A semi-soft cows’ milk cheese of France named after the small village of Morbier in Franche-Comté. It is ivory coloured, soft and slightly elastic with a thin black layer separating it horizontally in the middle. It has a rind that is yellowish, moist, and leathery.
Traditionally, the cheese consists of a layer of morning milk and a layer of evening milk. When making Comté, cheesemakers would end the day with leftover curd that was not enough for an entire cheese so they would press the remaining evening curd into a mould, and spread ash over it to protect it overnight. The following morning, the cheese would be topped up with morning milk. Nowadays, the cheese is usually made from a single milking with the traditional ash line replaced by vegetable dye. The aroma of Morbier can be strong and the flavour is rich and creamy, with a slightly bitter aftertaste.
Chevre Goats’ Cheese log
This is the classic, white mould rind goat log.
A succulent and classic blue from the Auvergne. The cheese is aged for ten weeks by affineur Xavier Morin, to create the richest creamiest texture. Fourme d’Ambert has a delicate blue flavour, and is soft and smooth.
NOIX DE LA SAINT JEAN
From the Forcalquier distillery in Provence and a delicious way to start the evening with this stunning walnut aperitif. Dauphine Green Walnuts are harvested whilst still unripe and before the shells begin to harden, this must happen before or on the 24th June, which is known as St. Jeans Day (or better known to us as John the Baptist) and which gives this drink its name. To enhance the flavour of the walnuts the distillery combines them with nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves to give the aperitif its spicy, fruity flavours. This should complement the chestnut bread and the Comte perfectly, enhancing the nut flavours of this serve.
St.Veran Cuvee Tradition Doamine Thomas
This family run estate has developed during the past three generations with Lucien now in charge with the support of his father. The Chardonnay is the all important component here as it is throughout the Maconnaise. The fruit displays a crispness on the opening followed by good depth of flavours. As the lemony tones fade the peachy notes are apparent. With the fullness of the cheese the wine develops and keeps the palate interested.
Chereau Carre Muscadet ‘Sur Lie ‘
With the vineyards situated near Nantes on the Brittany coast, the Atlantic ocean does play a part in the character of the wine. Cooling breezes in the summer are helpful so not to stress the ripening grapes. The ripened Melon de Bourgogne grapes are harvested in parcels from mid September. Sur lie refers to the wine being left on the dead yeast cells to add character and depth. Muscadet is not just for seafood and salad.Using it here with the Goats cheese log I am looking to balance the acidity of the cheese and the ripe grapey wine.The red onion and thyme is refreshed by the dryness of the Muscadet.
Maison Nicolas Perrin Syrah
The northern Rhone provides some fantastic Syrah .This is a collaboration between two well respected families. The Nicolas is Jaboulet and the Perrin is Mark. The grapes provide crunchy dark berry fruits with a hint of black pepper spice.The wines is made in steel vats and a part is moved to large oak barrels for a short 4/5 month rest before rejoining the rest for bottling. A juicy and fruity Rhone red works well with the creamy delicate nature of the blue cheese.
DROUIN CALVADOS AND CIDRE
Christian Drouin was an Industrialist when he bought a farm in Gonneville in the 1960s. His aim was simple: to produce a top quality spirit using the farms orchard apples. He passed this passion down to his son (also Christian) and now the company is in the third generation of Drouin. In 1995 the whole estate was recognised by the European Prestige Grand Prix Award, representing the quintessence of calvados.
FRAME 1. WHITE & RED Breadstick Cue
This dough is made using a poolish which means that part of the dough is fermented overnight to increase flavour and texture. We then added olive oil for elasticity and flavour. The ‘cues’ are shaped by hand, proved then baked in a fairly hot oven to dry out. Sundried Tomato Ciabatta : This is made using the same method as the ‘cue’ but with a more relaxed dough (added water). We then add soaked Sundried tomatoes.
FRAME 2. GREEN & YELLOW Herb Focaccia
A traditional Italian bread. Ours is made as a lean dough, just flour, water, salt and yeast. Herbs and lashings of olive oil are then added. This bread is not shaped as such, but is rather pressed into a tin. Butternut Squash & Sesame Roll : No yeast is added to this dough. A wide range of yeasts and bacterias exist on flour and in water. We ferment the flour and water together to make a ‘mother’ and this leavens the bread. We make this bread over a three day process which gives it its chewy, holey texture and slightly tangy taste. We added roast butternut squash to the dough, rolled it in sesame then proved it in the fridge overnight before baking.
FRAME 3. BROWN & BLUE 100% Wholemeal
We use Yorkshire Organic stoneground wholemeal flour for this dough. It is both grown and milled in North Yorkshire and is delicious and naturally sweet. We make this bread using a ‘flying poolish’ which is where all the yeast is added to one third of the total flour and water and fermented for an hour or so before being added to the remaining flour, salt and water to make the final dough. This is one of the few loaves me prove in a tin this is because the structure needs the support of the tin to rise.
FRAME 4. PINK Beetroot Sourdough: We make all our sourdoughs using the same method (just flour, water and salt) but with differing flours and sourdough starters. This bread is made from our white sourdough. We grate beetroot fresh and add to the final dough. The beetroot makes the dough very soft and naturally sweet.
FRAME 5. BLACK Black Bread: This is our version of a Russian Black Bread. This is based on our 100% rye sourdough loaf. To which I added Yorkshire Organic Millers 85% white flour (regular white flour is around 72% extraction*) malt extract, black treacle and caraway seed. Whilst researching this bread I found it very hard to get a firm consensus regarding what the flavours of Russian Black Bread should be. Some said coffee, old rye breads, chopped rye and many other ingredients, but I think these flavours work well and will intensify over time. *extraction: Grains are milled to create flour. They are then sieved to separate out the flour, bran, germ and semolina. Wholemeal flour is where all these ingredients are added back together, so you are eating all the grain. Or they are either left separate which makes the whitest flour at around 72% grain and 28% bran, germ and semolina that are not added back
and will be sold separately. The 85% will have a higher proportion of the bran, germ and semolina in the flour.
Sparkenhoe Vintage Red Leicester
The only unpasteurised farmhouse red Leicester made in the world. This version of Sparkenhoe red Leicester is the vintage profile; aged for 18 months, which gives it a strong, powerful flavour. Made by Jo and David Clarke in Market Bosworth, Leicestershire, England.
May Hill Green
Made with a mixture of pasteurised milk of rare-breed Gloucester and Friesian cattle in a manner similar to Stinking Bishop, except that the rind is not washed. Instead the rind is topped by chopped nettles and coiled by a Beechwood lath to give the cheese a distinct character. The paste is semi-soft with a soft and runny texture and a peppery finish. Flavour is lactic with and fairly strong aroma. It is great cheese to serve on a cheeseboard or spread on flavoured bread. Made by Charles Martell in Gloucestershire. Vegetarian.
Gjetost / Norwegian Brown Cheese
Gjestost is made using pasteurised cow’s and goat’s milk. The name is derived from the Norwegian for goat – Gjet. The cheese is made by boiling the leftover whey from the cow’s and goat’s milk together until the lactose caramelises. Norwegians enjoy Gjetost with coffee for breakfast, shaved thinly on flatbread or with spiced fruit cake at Christmas.
A delicious, creamy-textured, blue cheese from Carmarthenshire, Wales. Made by Carwyn Adams. When young, Perl Las (which translates as blue pearl in English) has a delicate blue taste. When mature, it becomes golden in colour and fuller in flavour.
Goat curd White Lake Cheese was started in 2004 by Peter Humphries and Roger Longman. Based in the heart of Cheddar Country they make a range of artisan Goat’s, Sheep’s and Cow’s milk cheeses. The goat curd is a very fresh version of cheese. The Goat’s milk comes from Rogers own herd,
Made by the Fabbri family in Tuscany. The Tuscan ewes enjoy fragrant and aromatic pastures, which produce rich milk. The rind is rubbed with olive skins to create the characteristic black colour, and the cheese is matured for six months to produce a harder texture and a full flavour.
La Amistad 2014 Alicante alc 13% Low Sulphur
Not quite a red or rose this is a natural wine made by organic farming methods. The grapes are harvested by hand and minimal handling of the Rojal grape is encouraged to get to the winery as quickly as allowed. The skins of the grapes are left in contact with the must (unfermented grape juice) for a few hours only. Aged in Tinajas clay pots to allow the wine to settle before bottling. Produced in small quantities. The wine is lively and fresh in the mouth. We have lightly chilled it to match the Red Leicester to retain a fresh and crisp opening.
EsTe Vinho Verde Loureiro alc10% vol
Green Wine A really fresh easy drinking white from the N.W of Portugal, located 30 km from the Atlantic coast. This wine is made from a single variety Loureiro, which is one of the more aromatic grapes from the Vinho Verde area. A wine that is finding many ways to be enjoyed from simple summer drinking to sea food and light grilled meats. This links well to the May Hill Green semi soft style.
Vin Jaune Daniel Dugois
This may be one of the most unusual flavours from a white wine you have had so far. The theme this month allows us to have some fun and choose some more off the wall combinations. This Vin Jaune is made by the Savagnin variety and is made in a method close to a Fino Sherry wine allowing a Veil of yeast to form in the barrel. The bottle Clavelin is 62cls which is the desired amount of wine left after ageing from an initial litre of wine !
Delgado Zuleta Medium alc17.5% vol
Brown Tinges This is a blend of Amontillados with the age of the youngest wine no less than four years. As Sherry wine goes this has delicate notes of flavour from the Palomino grape and careful oak barrel ageing. It lies somewhere between a youthful Fino and maturing Amontillado. The Bodegas is still owned by two families.
Sparkling from the Prosecco producing area Valdobbiadene. I will leave the blue to the cheese! This super spumante style wine from the family Bisol. Made with mainly Merlot and Pinot Noir grapes and some Glera for the finesse .The colour comes from the skins of the two red grapes. With this in mind we have a super cleansing feeling to work with the Per Las cheese.
De Bortoli Black Noble fortified wine alc17.5% vol
An aged Semillon with toasty barrel flavours from the toasted American and French oak. With concentrated flavours of coffee, toffee, anise and dried fruits developing in the glass we end with this super sweety from Australia.