Day: September 27, 2018
- Herb Focaccia / Olives, Toasted Almonds, Grilled Peppers / Tete de Moine / Niklas Lagrien
- White roll / Apple chutney, Apple / Morbier / Martin and Anna Arndorfer Gruner Vetliner
- Walnut Bread / Toasted Walnuts, Nutty Butter / Gruyere & Etivaz / Gruber Roschitz Zweigelt (Wednesday), Tramin Blaugunder & Pinot Nero (Thursday)
- Malted Cob / Green Salad / Reblochon / Judith Beck Weissburgunder
- Teacake with Apricots and Currants / Plum / St Marcelin / Gentian de Lure & Dolin Genepi
EARTH: Beetroot Bread / Beetroot / Tetilla / La Amistad & Pheasants Tears
WATER: Smoked salt roll / Macerated Strawberry / Mahon / Ocean
AIR: Digestive Biscuit / Rhubarb with juice / Monte Enebro / Petritis
WATER/AIR: 100% Rye Bread / Watercress and Parsley Pesto / Fontina / Santa Macerena Pinot Noir
FIRE: Tea cake / Plum / Picos de Europa / Vino de Anna Etna Rosso
The green fields of Galicia, in the far north west of Spain, are known for the quality of their pastures from which come some of Spain’s best known cows’ milk cheeses including Tetilla, the region’s most iconic cheese. Made using pasteurised milk, this cheese has a lightly acidic and buttery aroma, a dense smooth, semi-soft paste, and good balance of lactic and creamy flavours. It is particularly good when used in cooking.
Mahón is the iconic cheese of Menorca with a distinctive square shape and rounded edges. The vibrant, orange coloured rind is created by rubbing it with pimentón and olive oil as it matures. The semi-hard, sometimes crumbly texture has a fruity, fresh and creamy aroma complemented by rich, savoury and yoghurty flavours. This product has been awarded with 2 stars in the Great Taste Awards 2016. The judges’ comments were:
“Very good flavours rolling round the palate, with sweetness and savoury notes, creamy and fruity on the palate. Good firm texture and full bodied aroma and flavour. This cheese has a creamy mouthfeel and is full of flavour.
Pasteurised. Very smooth, dense texture with some creaminess. Grey rind and an intense white paste. Flavours of sweet cream, very mild goatiness and a fruity acidity. From La Adrada, in Castile and Leon, Spain. It is aged for twenty to thirty days.
Fontina d’ Aosta is from raw milk in the Aosta valley in Piedmont, Italy. It has an earthy quality and is very good for melting and for use in fondues. This is a washed rind cheese, with weekly washing to encourage the rind to form and develop the flavours in the cheese.
PICOS DE EUROPA
The Valdeón (Picos de Europa) is a pasteurised blue cheese made from a blend of approximately 90% cows’ and 10% goats’ milk. This highly recognisable maple leaf wrapped cheese, has a creamy and mushroomy aroma, a buttery melting texture and nutty, savoury, sometimes spicy flavours. It is delicious by itself or used to cook with.
EARTH: LA AMISTAD (SPAIN) & PHEASANTS TEARS (GEORGIA).
La Amstad is 100% Rojal. Not much is known of this local variety. Once planted widely in the 19th century around South-East Spain for both eating and wine when irrigated it gives very large bunches and yields copious litres of juice. When not irrigated it gives a very thick skin which lends itself to late harvesting and for keeping stored over the winter months so families could continue eating grapes for up to 6 months after harvesting. It is of rustic character with marked salty and mineral touches. These are pure, “minimal intervention” wines at the forefront of Spain’s slow move towards more elegant, terroir driven styles from Alicante, South-East Spain where the climate is hot, humid and Mediterranean.
Pheasant’s Tears estate vineyard plantings flow down the slopes of the eastern Georgian Kiziqi province overlooking the Alazani Valley and snow-capped Caucasus Mountains. Qvevri were the first vessels ever to be used for wine fermentation, with archaeological finds dating back to 6000 BC. Qvevri are clay vessels lined with beeswax and completely buried under the ground where the temperature stays even throughout the year, allowing the wines to ferment in the natural coolness of the earth. Pheasant’s Tears qvevri vary in age but some date back to the mid 19th century. The cellar is built in the vineyard itself to minimize the damage to the grapes in transportation, allowing harvesting and process before the heat of the day takes effect. In accordance with Georgian traditional wine-making methods, the ripest of stems are added to the grape skins, juice and pits, for both reds and whites. The maceration time depends on varietal and the size of the qvevri and varies between 3 weeks and 6 months. The Rkatsiteli is from thirty year old vines, fermented naturally for thirty days with wild yeasts in clay Georgian qvevri buried underground. The wine is neither filtered nor fined and only a touch of sulphur is added at bottling. Golden amber in the glass with a nose of wild honey, but dry, and unexpectedly, full-bodied in the mouth with background notes of walnut and apricot.
WATER: OCEAN THRAPSHATHIRI, DAFNES, IDAIA WINERY.
A bright, uplifting wine, with delicate fruit aromas followed by a generous and spicy mouthfeel with hints of liquorice and pine and a refreshing herbal, saline finish. Idaia Winery is located in Venerato, a village in the heart of the vineyards of the Malevizi district, which is part of the Dafnes appellation area. Idaia is a family company, specialising in producing wines from indigenous grapes. The indigenous variety of Thrapshathiri (pronounced Thra-psa-THEE-ree) is grown in vineyards located at an altitude of 400 to 500 metres above sea level.
AIR: PETRITIS, TROODOS MOUNTAINS, CYPRUS.
Delicious aromas of citrus fruits, candied lime, litchi and a touch of spice and vanila. A medium bodied yet refreshing wine with a long, persistent finish. The winery is located at Kyperounda, in the Pitsilia area of the Troodos mountain range, 50 km from Limassol. At an altitude of 1140m, it is higher than any other winery in Europe.
AIR/WATER: SANTA MACARENA PINOT NOIR, ESPINOS Y CARDOS, CHILE.
This wine is bright, aromatic and fresh with subtle oak play ing a supporting role. The emphasis on the delicious red fruit flavours, drinkability and enjoyment. A single vineyard Pinot Noir from one of the most coastal vineyards in Chile in San Antonioi just 5 km from the ocean, within a small vineyard region 55 miles west of central Santiago and just south of Casablanca Valley. Morning mists and spring frosts, often associated with the Napa Valley and Bordeaux are brought from the west coast by the Humboldt current.
FIRE: VINO DI ANNA, ETNA ROSSO
Anna Martens and Eric Narioo started making wine together on Mount Etna in 2008. In 2010 they purchased their first vineyard of old, vine Nerello Mascelese and a 250 yr old palmento and wine building which they restored and “Vino di Anna” was created. Today they own 6 hectares of land which they farm biodynamically.
Mount Etna is an incredible place to grow vines. The soils are black, fertile and rich in minerals. The volcano is in constant eruption, often sprinkling the vineyards with fresh cinders. The vineyards are located along terraces at high altitudes (600-1200 metres). The climate is extreme making it both an exciting and challenging place to make natural wine.
Vino di Anna makes a range of natural wines. The vineyards are farmed organically and tended by hand. The grapes are all hand harvested. The vines are alberello (bush vines) and range in age from 60 – 100 plus years old. Nerello Mascalese is the principal red grape. The white is a field blend of local grapes, mainly Grecanico and Carricante. The wines are made with minimal intervention, natural yeasts, no additives, no fining or filtering. Little or no SO2 is used.
BCW JULY 2016 YORKSHIRE
1. WALNUT & SULTANA RYE Dale End Cheddar Locksley Gin This is made with 100% Yorkshire Grains. The rye is milled in Barnsley at Worsborough water mill and the wheat is grown and milled by Yorkshire Organic Millers. This bread is a sourdough, meaning that no yeast has been added to the dough. It is fermented and risen over three days giving it the charistically strong flavour of rye bread. We have added toasted walnut, sultana and some black treacle to bring out the sweetness in the grains. This should be a great contrast to the freshness of the gin.
2. SHARROW SOURDOUGH Ribblesdale Goats Pinot Noir Our sourdoughs are made with just three ingredients: flour, water and salt. Making bread this way is very traditional. We ferment flour and water together and this leavens the bread instead of using fresh or dried yeast. The bread is made over three days as this method generally needs much longer to prove than yeasted breads. The long fermentation gives it a chewy, holey structure and slightly sour taste. Sourdough breads also have natural keeping qualities because they are slightly acidic (which prohibits mould growth). We think that the slight tang complements the strength of the cheese.
3. SPELT BREAD Sommerfield Pericone This wheat is milled by Worsborough Mill on Barnsley. And yes, it is a wheat! Lots of people think that it isn’t! Spelt is an ‘ancient’ grain, meaning that it hasn’t been cultivated or developed for high manufacture and as such some people find it easier to digest. It has a delicious naturally nutty flavour that should go amazingly with the Alpinestyle Sommerfield.
4. SODA BREAD Blue cheese selection Baccus/Savauvignon This bread is out version of the Irish classic, but using 100% Yorkshire wheat. Yorkshire Organic Millers grind a course wholemeal especially for us for use in this bread. The bread is naturally sweet because of the wholewheat and is very soft as a result of the Organic Buttermilk which is made for us, also specially, by Acorn Dairy in North Yorkshire.
5. STOUT CAKE Cream Cheese topping Bete Noir Debortoli Semillion We have opted for a plain scone so that the curd and berries can shine. We use organic, uncultured buttermilk that is bottled for us by Acorn Dairies in North Yorkshire. Scones rise because of a chemical reaction between the acidity of the buttermilk and the bicarbonate of soda mixed in with the flour. This reaction happens as soon as they touch so need to go straight into the oven to ensure a light, fluffy texture.
Dale End Cheddar
Dale End Cheddar is made in Botton from full-flavoured, quality unpasteurised milk collected from the Camphill Community’s 46 Dairy Shorthorn cows (a traditional Craven breed known for the superb quality of their milk).
The Courtyard Dairy decided to stock the Cheddar and age it to 18-months old, by which time it is rich, with a sharp Cheddar bite.
Alastair Pearson also makes Summerfield, an Alpine-style cheese. Gruyère-style cheeses are notoriously difficult to make and cannot be made from silage-fed animals (for technical reasons), so whereas Botton’s Dale End Cheddar can be, and is, made all year round, Summer Field is only made when the cows are out at pasture and thus in very limited supply. This pasture-grazing gives the cheese its name – Summer Field.
Ribblesdale Goat Curd
Curd is a very fresh and young form of cheese. Curds are created when the rennet and starter culture are added to the milk and these separate out the liquid whey which is drained off. A small amount of salt is added to finish it off.
Blue Monday is a complex cheese with a spicy bite from the blue – a mix of blue sharpness + sweet creaminess. It has the feel of a British Gorgonzola.
Originally made by the rock star cheese maker Alex James & now made by Yorkshire based cheese makers, Shepherds Purse. It is named after Alex James’ favourite New Order song.
Harrogate Blue is a soft, luxuriously creamy, blue-veined cheese, delivering a mellow blue flavour with a hint of pepper to finish. Harrogate Blue is from the Shepherd’s Purse Dairy in Thirsk. It was launched in 2012 and was the first cheese that Judy’s daughters, Katie and Caroline produced together, having just taken over the running of the dairy. Harrogate Blue was a hit with customers from day one and within a couple of weeks it won its first award. It’s gone on to win two golds at the Global Cheese Awards and a silver at the World Cheese Awards. Harrogate Blue is matured for a minimum of 10 weeks to give the cheeses the time to develop the depth of flavour and creaminess.
Ribblesdale Blue is unusual as it is a goats’ blue. It is now made in Hawes, Wensleydale, but not at the Wensleydale Creamery. Originally it was made on the family farm at Horton in Ribblesdale near Settle, hence the name, but moved to larger premises and now gets its goat milk from Lancashire. It is similar to a Gorgonzola in flavour, but is milder and sweeter.
Longley Farm Soft (Cream) Cheese
LOCKSLEY GIN AND 1724 TONIC.
Locksley Gin is created by Sheffield based head distiller John Cherry. John spent years in the United States working at large wine retailers before coming back home to create his gin. Using botanicals local to Yorkshire such as Elderflower and Dandelion, Locksley Gin is a light, summery style of gin with a touch more residual sugar to allow it to be consumed neat. We’ve added a splash of Chilean 1724 Tonic, just as John likes it, to emphasize the lighter more delicate notes. Pairing gin and cheese is not common but we find the fruitiness of this gin lifts the cheese and the effervescence of the tonic helps the palate. A great aperitif.
ENGLISH WINE PROJECT PINOT NOIR AND RONDO 2014
Using grapes from our closest vineyard at Renishaw Hall (so Derbyshire and not strictly Yorkshire) head winemaker Kieron Atkinson aims to create modern English wine. Renishaw Hall was first planted over 40 years ago by then owner, Sir Reresby Sitwell in 1972. Being a merchant of wine he was already familiar with grape varieties and the tiny 2.5 acre site with sandy loam soils was, at one time, the most northerly vineyard in the world. This Pinot and Rondo blend is a new wine from Kieron and shows light red berries and raspberry with a touch of blackcurrant coming from the Rondo grape, which was first hybridized in 1964 and then first commercially planted in Ireland as late as 1997. Kieron planted the Rondo at Renishaw in 2013. We chilled the wine everso slightly to retain its freshness and to show a lightness and racy acidity which matches the youth of the goats cheese and the tartness of the tomatoes.
CARUSO AND MININI PERRICONE
Stefano and his brothers Franceso and Roberto are the fourth generation to make wine on the family estate in Sicily. Perricone is not a widely known grape but is widely planted in its native country and creates a wine displaying delicious tayberry and mulberry flavours backed up with a spice and a touch of cracked black pepper. A robust wine that has layers of complexity to it. The perfect foil for the weight of the alpine/cheddar Sommerfield and the texture of the Spelt. A favourite wine at the shop. This Perricone comes from a small 2.1 hectare plot at 260 metres near Salemi, uses only organic fertilizer, is picked at the end of September and spends 6 months in stainless steel before further aging for up to 4 months in the bottle before release.
ENGLISH WINE PROJECT SAUVIGNON BLANC and BACCHUS 2014
The second wine from Kieron this evening, in keeping with keeping things local! Before becoming a winemaker in 2010, Kieron served in the Army for 9 years leading troops in Afghanistan. His wife is from Derbyshire and so he came to Renishaw in 2011 as the 40 year old vineyard was in need of a manager. His wines have gone on to scoop many prizes including a Decanter magazine World Wine award for this bottle! The Bacchus, named after the Greek God of wine and as a varietal created in 1933 and released in 1972, comes from Kieron’s other project at Welcombe Halls vineyard in Warwickshire near Stratford upon Avon. Fresh and zippy with lots of youthful energy, this wine should excite the palate when tried with the blue cheeses. It’s worth tasting the cheese, then the wine and going back to the cheese to see how the combinations change. You should find this wine amplifies the saltiness of the cheese whilst the cheese amplifies the fruitiness of the wine.
KELHAM ISLAND BETE NOIR STOUT and DOMAINE BOUSQUET FORTIFIED MALBEC
Two drinks to finish. An amuse bouche of stout and fortified desert red wine. The stout comes from Kelham Island brewery, Sheffield’s pivotal craft/real ale brewery which was set up in 1990 by Dave Wickett, originally behind the Fat Cat Pub, and has been the nursery or training ground for many of today’s head brewers including the likes of Claire from Welbeck Abbey, Stuart from Magic Rock as well as brewers who have worked for Brewdog and Thornbridge. Bete Noir was one of their first stouts and shows rich chocolate notes with a lightness that belies its 5.5% abv. A component of tonight’s cake it’s worth trying on its own.
Finally a small offering of Domaine Bousquet Fortified dessert wine. Organically grown Malbec grapes at 1,200 m in Mendoza in Argentina. A four month-long maceration ensures that the maximum amount of flavour has been extracted from the skins of the Malbec grapes. With fermentation in American oak to provide vanillins and then aging in French oak to provide spice. Good natural acidity is an essential factor in quality sweet wines and there’s just the right amount here to keep in check the layers of plum fruits, chocolate, coffee, caramel, spice and marmalade flavours you’ll find here. A delicious way to end the evening.