Day: November 29, 2018
HYGGE THEME – NOVEMEBER 2018
- Pagnotta / Brie de Meaux / Truffle Oil / Salad / Muga Rioja Rose (Spain)
- Walnut Bread / Rotwein Sennachas / Roast Pears / Ikebana Montepulicano (Italy)
- Potato Bread (Toasted) / Ogleshield (Melted) (Cheese on Toast) / Pickles / Chutney / Chablis (France)
- Fig and Aniseed Sourdough / Gorgonzola Dolce / Dried Figs and Grapes / DeBortoli Vat Petit Verdot (Australia)
- Spelt and Ginger Biscuit / Gjetost / Blandys Duke of Clarence Madiera
1. Comte / Tomme De Savoire, Chestnut Bread, Tomato Compote (sharp)
France is famous for growing Chestnuts and the subtle nutty flavour is the perfect accompaniment for the cheese. We have added cooked chestnuts to our Sharrow Sourdough loaf. This bread is made up of a mix of white, wholemeal and rye flours and is made over a three day period. The first day the sourdough is refreshed, keeping the yeast and bacterias alive that leaven the dough. The next day the dough is mixed, proved and then put in the fridge to ferment overnight. In the morning of the third day the bread is baked. This long process gives sourdough the classic chewy texture and depth of flavour.
2. San Nectaire, Yorkshire Square, Mushroom Pate
Our Yorkshire Square loaf is also a sourdough, meaning that there is no yeast added, and
contains only three ingredients: flour, salt and water. The flour used to make this is grown and milled in north Yorkshire by Yorkshire Organic Millers. It is a 85% extraction so is somewhere between a white and a wholemeal flour (wholemeal being 100% of the grain!). We chose this loaf for the French theme as it is made in a similar way to the famous French bread Poilaine. It is naturally low in gluten so we prove it in a tin to give it a good crumb. It has a crumpety texture and is very moist.
3. Ossau Irati, Brioche, Fig Jam, Fresh Figs
Brioche is an enriched dough containing butter, eggs and sugar. The bread is rich, very soft and has a very light texture. You make this dough by developing the dough fully then adding the butter at the end over a long period of time, a little like the liquid when you made risotto. This allows the butter to be absorbed fully.
4. Munster, Baguette, Green Salad
No French themed evening would be complete without it! The chewy and holey texture are created by the long fermentation of the dough and its high water content. We hand roll each baguette and prove them on a linen couche – this helps them to keep their shape. They are ‘slashed’ with a razor blade to create the ‘ears’. A classic combo with a washed rind cheese.
5. Roquefort, Hot x bun
It is Easter after all! This fruited and spiced loaf is a wonderful compliment to the salty
cheese. Almost every European country has an Easter bread containing dried fruit and
spices so I don’t think would seem so out of place on a French table.
COMTÉ SAINT ANTOINE
Comté has been made in the Massif du Jura for over eight centuries in small, village based co-operatives called fruitières. The milk is delivered daily from the surrounding dairies within no more than an eight-mile radius. At a few weeks old, the cheeses are moved to the cellars of the affineurs and at four months the cheeses are graded to determine whether they are good enough to be awarded the green band which denotes the highest quality of Comte. This Comte is matured by Marcel Petite at the old fort of Saint Antoine It is matured for 24 months and is particularly fruity, smooth, mellow and nutty with a long finish.
This Saint Nectaire comes from the ripening rooms of affineur Xavier Morin. He is a passionate advocate of the cheeses from Cantal and the Auvergneand works in complete partnership with each individual cheese maker. It is made from the milk of the now rare breed of Salers cow native to the Auvergne region of France. Most cheese makers consequently have moved over to breeds that are easier to farm and more suitable for mass production.. Although the yield is very low, less than half than that of a Holstein, the quality of the milk is exceptional. Underneath the silky grey rind of the Saint Nectaire is a supple and creamy paste that has a gloriously ‘earthy’ flavour.
From the French Pyrenees, this cheese is made from the milk of only the
Manech and Basco-Béarnaise ewes that graze the Ossau Valley in Bearn and the Iraty beech forests of the Pays Basque. It has a smooth, white interior and a delicate, fruity flavour.
Reblochon Fermier Missilier
Reblochon cheese has a supple paste as it is lightly pressed by small wooden discs when in the mould. The cheese has a blush pink-to-white coat, with a taste that’s delicately sweet and fruity, with a nutty finish.This Reblochon is made by Fromages J.P. Missilier in the mountainous region of Le Grand Bornand in the Haute-Savoie. Their herd consists of 40 Abondance cows, a breed which is highly prized for its rich milk and its ability to thrive in challenging climates and give excellent, protein-rich milk. In May, the whole family, their friends and the Abondance cows, set off by foot for the high mountain pastures and will stay here until October. The Summer pastures provide sumptuous, vast grass meadows strewn with wild flowers, which give great depth and complexity to the flavour of the cheese. Reblochon is protected by strict AOC regulations stipulating that only the native breeds of Montbeliarde, Abondance and Tirane are used.
Roquefort is considered to be one of the greatest blues in the world. It was mentioned by Pliny in AD 79, and has been protected since 1411. The cheese can only be made in the area surrounding Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, and with the local Lacaune breed of sheep. The caves situated around Roquefort (Grand Causses) provide the ideal conditions for maturing blue cheese – moist, cool and breezy. Roquefort will be aged here for around three months as its blue veining develops. This Roquefort is made by the third generation of the Carles family. They started cheese-making in 1927, and remain one of the only family producers of Roquefort left in the region. The flavour of the cheese is reminiscent of the air in the caverns where it ripens and the mould grows naturally. This artisan variety, made in smaller batches with local milk and penicillin roqueforti cultured from rye loaves baked in-house, is round, deep and perfectly balanced: big, creamy chunks of the paste dissolve on the palate like sharp, soothing milky lozenges.
Baton / Fresh Peas / Perroche / MayFly NZ Sauvignon
Flatbread / Roasted Tomatoes / Grilled Mushroom / Beenleigh Blue / The Den SA Pinotage
Buttermilk Bread Roll / Spanish Olive Crisp / Chutney / Mull Cheddar / Neige Ice Cider served in a picnic basket
Focchia / Watermelon / Cucumber / Feta / White Port w/ Double Dutch Cucumber & Watermelon Tonic
Strawberry Tart / Fresh Strawberry / Ricotta / Mateus Rose
A soft, rindless goats’ cheese made by Charlie Westhead at the Neal’s Yard Creamery in Dorstone, Herefordshire. Delicate and lemony, it uses traditional rennet. It has no added rind, but retains its structure despite being a fresh cheese.
Made by Ben Harris from Ticklemore Cheese in Totnes, Devon, from the milk of 250 Friesland sheep. They are grazed outside Spring – Summer and Ben only takes their milk January to July to make Beenleigh Blue, which sees seasonal variations – form being flinty and minerally early season to more rich and robust later in the year.
The original recipe for Beenleigh Blue was developed by the founder, Robin Congdon and based on Roquefort, although it turned out to be quite different.
Once the Beenleigh Blue is set, it is dry salted on the outside, pierced and then aged in the ‘cave’ for three weeks to encourage the blue mould to form. The cheese is wrapped to discourage further blueing, then aged for a further three months at low temperatures to allow the complexities and the flavour to develop slowly.
Isle of Mull Cheddar
Made by Jeff and Chris Reade near Tobermory on the Isle of Mull on a farm powered entirely by a hydroelectric plant (fed by water channels that took them fifteen years to dig out) and two wind turbines that they also erected themselves. Summers are short on the island, so the herd of mainly Swedish Red and Meuse Rhine Issel cows spend a good deal of the year inside. They are fed on a diet that is split evenly between silage and spent grain husks, known as draff, from the distillery in Tobermory a mile or so away. The cheeses can have a wetter texture and a more alcoholic and fermented flavour, which was often put down to the draff in the cows’ diet. It is matured for between 13 and 15 months.
This is a barrel aged Feta made by the Roussas dairy near Volos on the Pelion Peninsula in mainland Greece. The cheese is kept in a small amount of brine to coat and preserve the cheese without covering it which would make it too salty.Feta is a protected name and herds of goats or sheep roam freely on scrubby pasture. The young ‘cheese’ is put in barrels and topped up with brine for about 100 days.
Made by Tom Calver at the Westcombe Dairy near Shepton Mallet in Somerset since 2011. Westcombe Dairy is famous for making Cheddar, but ricotta is made from the whey left over from the cheddar making process which uses the curds.They say, “Our Somerset Ricotta is light and fresh tasting, with a rich, slightly grainy texture and a pleasantly salty, full dairy flavour. Ricotta can bend to almost any culinary use, from starters to desserts. If you’ve never had it, try some simply spread on toast with a little jam or olive oil, or drizzle it with honey as a quick dessert. It’s also perfect for cakes, pastries and puddings (try it in a cheesecake instead of cream cheese), and makes a lovely addition to savoury pasta or pastry dishes.”
MayFly New Zealand Sauviginon
The Den, South Africa, Pinotage
Neige Ice Cider, Canada
Sagrado White Port / Double Dutch Cucumber and Watermelon Tonic
Colston Bassett Stilton
While Stilton is one of Britain’s best known cheeses, it is only made by six producers. Colston Bassett is one of the smallest.
It has been made here since 1913 and during this time, there have only been four cheesemakers: now it is Billy Kevan. The curds are hand-ladled, a time-consuming and painstaking process, but one that helps to preserve the structure of the curd. The resulting cheeses are more buttery in texture than that of mass-produced Stiltons.
Because of customer demand during the BSE scare of 1996, Colston Bassett was advised to use a vegetarian coagulant instead of the animal rennet they had always used. In 2000 Neal’s Yard asked them to produce a Stilton using animal rennet and to be less blue and longer ripened.
This latter change gives the cheese a less pronounced blue flavour, while the animal rennet lends the cheese a richer, more complex, and more long lasting flavour. The sticky pink rind is edible, if you like the taste.
Époisses de Bourgogne is made in Burgundy, France. Originally it was made by the monks of the region from the sixteenth century and is based on an even older recipe. It is a pungent, soft cheese with a washed rind. It is washed in brine and marc de Bourgogne brandy to produce the distinctive orange rind. This also produces almost meaty flavours, pairing well with burgundy wines and Trappist monk beers.
This is only the second batch of this cheese released to retailers. The Trethowan Dairy has produced Gorwydd Caerphilly for years, but recently decided to develop a new cheese as they now have particularly good milk from their new location in Somerset. They decided to produce a washed rind cheese and they washed it with a local cider brandy.
A ewe’s milk cheese made in the North Leeds suburb of Adel, Yorkshire Pecorino Fresco is just about as local as it gets. This little beauty is perfect for those of you with a fondness for Mediterranean cuisine. It’s made by Mario Olianas, who’s created a delectable 30 day aged pecorino, using his family’s traditional Sardinian recipe.
Only made when the cows are at pasture during the summer months, this cheese is in extremely short supply. Made to a Gruyère recipe, it has that sweet, supple nuttiness associated with the best Gruyères.
Made by Alastair Pearson at Botton Creamery (near Whitby), North Yorkshire, England.Botton Camphill Community makes a range of traditional farmhouse cheeses using full-flavoured, quality milk collected from the community’s 46 Dairy Shorthorn cows (a traditional Craven breed known for the superb quality of their milk).
Alastair travelled to Germany to learn his cheese-making trade. Using this knowledge, and the Dairy Shorthorn’s rich, yellow milk, Alastair makes Summerfield, this Alpine-style cheese. Gruyère-style cheeses are notoriously difficult to make and cannot be made from silage-fed animals (for technical reasons), so whereas Botton’s Dale End Cheddar can be, and is, made all year round, Summer Field is only made when the cows are out at pasture and thus in very limited supply. This pasture-grazing gives the cheese its name – Summer Field.
Il Pumo Primitivo Salento
Salento is at the southernmost part of Italy in the heel end.The climate is very dry with hot summers ,welcome relief comes from the onshore breezes which in turn allows the vines to rest. San Marzano is a well established winery producing a wide range of full flavoured red wines in particular. The harvest took place over a two week period in early September. This Primitivo ( Zinfandel in California )is well balanced and a little fresher than previous harvests allowing us to pair with the chosen cheese. The grapes under go a ten day cool maceration in stainless steel tanks to retain the fresher flavours. As the wine opens up the more herbaceous notes appear.
Hommage de Pays Marsanne by Boris Kovac 2013 12.8 (13%)
Situated in the Languedoc near Minervois 30 minutes to the East of Carcasonne the soils vary with sandy top soils lower levels of limestone and dense rock. This comes over in the wines of the region allowing a huge diversity of grapes and styles. This wine has a small amount of Riesling which keeps the wine fresh and layers of fruit appear. on the palate. A long fermentation at a low temperature occurs in epoxy lined concrete tanks. The wine spends two months ageing on the lees which gives a light creamy feel. Lovely zesty citrus notes keep the fruit keen. Boris Kovac hails from Serbia and was discovered by our supplier in 2008 while travelling through vineyards in the region. They got on so well that we now feature at least six wines from Boris !
Cremant de Bourgogne Blancs de Blancs Mancey
This wine is made close to the town of Macon in Burgundy using mainly Chardonnay grapes for elegance and some Aligote to keep the acidity high and wine fresh to the core.Appley notes throughout the long mousse on the palate. The grapes are only pressed lightly to use the best juice .The wine is made in the traditional method as in the Champagne region to the north.After the first fermentation in large vats the wine is bottled and left to rest in the cellars for 18 to 24 months before the bottles are. The next process is called Remuage as the bottles are gradually up-ended which takes several weeks. The deposit is then removed (disgoring) and bottles are sealed for the next journey. Mancey belong to a group of twenty Vignerons who want to concentrate on the farming and wine making and let the BVV run their business side.
Bourgogne Rouge Michel Magnien 2012 Organically farmed.
This is very traditionally made by organic farming methods .Using Pinot Noir grapes from the families own vineyards near Morey Saint Denis. Michel learned his trade from his father Bernard who let him have his own four hectares when he was just a teenager. Now he runs the vineyards with his wife Dominique who are both passionate about tending the vines from root to grape. This is a lovely complex Pinot displaying savoury fruits as well as deep cherry notes. The oak is restrained after a period in large French barrels used year on year. Pinot is one of the hardest vines to tend !
Feuerheed’s Fine Tawny Port 19.5%
The families of Barros and Van Zeller joined forces to make these Port wines made in the Douro Valley and aged in Vila de Gaia on the banks of the Douro river. This wine is made from five of the main Port grapes,Touriga Nacional,Touriga Franca,Touriga Roriz,Tinta Barocca ,Tinta Cao.The Tawny gets it’s colour from a short period in small barrels none as pipes .The grapes are whole bunch pressed and soaked to extract some of the colour from the skins. A slow two day fermentation ensues to keep the fresher flavours. This Port has savoury notes and slightly less sweetness than some of the richer styles. 1
The perfect vessel to scoop up the soft cheese! Our batons are made using an overnight poolish. This is where a very small amount of yeast is added to one third of the total flour and water. It is then left in the fridge to ferment overnight. In the morning it is then mixed with the remaining flour, water and salt and fermented some more. This very long process is what gives it its chewy texture and a high water content gives it the light, holey texture
2. Giol Prosecco Frizzante / Gorgonzola / Sharrow Sourdough / roasted peaches
Our sourdoughs are made with just three ingredients: flour, water and salt. Making bread this way is very traditional. We ferment flour and water together and this leavens the bread instead of using fresh or dried yeast. The bread is made over three days as this method generally needs much longer to prove than yeasted breads. The long fermentation gives it a chewy, holey structure and slightly sour taste. Sourdough breads also have natural keeping qualities because they are slightly acidic (which prohibits mould growth). We think that the slight tang complements the strength of the cheese.
3. Primvs Cava / Baron Bigod / Walnut bread / Truffle honey
This is the same dough as the Sharrow Sourdough that you just had except with LOTS of toasted walnuts added. We toast all the nuts and seeds used within our breads as this releases their natural oils and brings out their flavour. You will notice that the bread is slightly purple this is a chemical reaction between an enzyme in the walnut skin and the acidity in the sourdough starter. The nutty, savoury flavour of this bread should match beautifully with the rich truffle and mushroomy cheese.
4. Lambrusco / Winchester biscuit / Grapes or chutney
We have made a savoury Winchester biscuit. They are slightly spicy from cayenne and mustard. The crumbly texture should work really well against the dryness of the Lambrusco.
5. Innocent Bystander Moscato / Sweetened curd cheese / Scone and strawberries
We have opted for a plain scone so that the curd and berries can shine. We use organic, uncultured buttermilk that is bottled for us by Acorn Dairies in North Yorkshire. Scones rise because of a chemical reaction between the acidity of the buttermilk and the bicarbonate of soda mixed in with the flour. This reaction happens as soon as they touch so need to go straight into the oven to ensure a light, fluffy texture.
Brillat de Savarin
A French, cows’ milk soft cheese
Rouzaire’s Brillat Savarin is lusciously creamy and sinfully rich. The classic and original triple-cream cheese. Unpasteurised.
Young, voluptuous, creamy and rich. Not to be confused with the stronger and harder gorgonzola piccante. Sublime when drizzled with honey. Italian pasteurised cows’ milk cheese.
Baron Bigod is Britain’s first unpasteurised Brie to be made on the farm in traditional large (3 kg) form and ladled only by hand. Jonathan and Dulcie Crickmore have been dairy farmers all their lives at Fen Farm Dairy in Suffolk. Falling milk prices prompted them to diversify into cheese making. Seeing a gap in the market for a large (3 kg) unpasteurised Brie (similar to Brie de Meaux) they started to develop Baron Bigod. This involved purchasing a herd of French cows (Montbeliarde) to provide the rich milk needed to complement their newly acquired cheese-making skills. Unpasteurised cows’ milk,
Needing an outlet for their milk, Mike and Judie developed Old Winchester. This Gouda-style cheese aged for 18 months; caramelised, smoky and with crystalline crunches. Made by Mike and Judie Smales in Landford, Wiltshire, England. Pasteurised cows’ milk using vegetarian rennet.
This curd is from Cow Close Farm where Stanage Millstone is made. Curd is made by adding a small amount of starter culture, which causes the milk to sour and curdle and rennet, which helps to solidify the curds and make sure they are not too acidic. Rennet also helps the flavour and texture of the curd. Rennet is a natural product produced in the stomach of animals, but vegetarian rennets are also used as well as traditional coagulants made from plants such as thistle which have been used for thousands of years. Curd cheese is the freshest, youngest cheese and is simply curds with a small amount of salt added.
Vevue D’Argent (France)
Giol Frizzante Prosecco (Italy)
Primvs Cava (Spain)
Innocent Bystander Moscato (Australia)